在杉树林旁的露天浴池享受宁静的“休养生息时光”1

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삼나무숲 노천탕에 그윽한 생의 휴식
도쿄 역을 출발한 신칸센 열차. 한 시간쯤 달렸을까. 다카사키 역 이후로는 내내 터널 안이다. 분명 산악을 지나는 것이리라. 조모고겐 역에서 다시 시작된 긴 터널. 신칸센으로도 13분을 달릴 만큼 길다. 그 암흑 공간을 탈출하기 직전 안내방송이 흘러나왔다. 종착역인 에치고 유자와 도착을 알리는 방송이다.
; g4 o' s4 f; C" y# x8 Y이것이다. 국경의 긴 터널을 빠져나오니 설국이 펼쳐졌다로 시작되는 가와바타 야스나리의 소설 설국 첫 머리의 그 긴 터널이. 한겨울이라면 밤의 밑바닥이 하얗게 변했다는 다음 글귀 역시 실감하리라. 니가타는 한겨울에 눈이 4m 이상 내리는 설국이니까. 그러니 잊지 마시라. 류곤 온천 료칸을 여행할 때는 설국을 체험으로 읽을 수 있다는 사실을.
에치고 유자와. 소설 설국의 무대이면서 동시에 야스나리가 원고를 쓰기 위해 묵었던 온천마을이다. 유독 료칸에 묵으며 글쓰기를 즐겼던 이 소설가. 그 료칸 다카한은 지금도 그 자리를 지킨다. 물론 세월만큼 변화가 커 모습은 호텔로 변했어도. 그래도 집필실만큼은 2층에 옛 모습 그대로 보존돼 있다.

료칸 류곤은 이 에치고 유자와 역에서 멀지 않다. 자동차로 15분 거리인 무이카마치 온천마을의 산자락 평지에 있다. 40년째 영업 중이라는데 외형만 보면 수백 년 됨 직해 보인다. 고풍스러움이야말로 류곤의 자랑이지요. 몇 채만 빼면 대부분 100년 이상 된 고옥들로 모두 근처에서 옮겨왔습니다. 료칸 사무를 총괄하는 요스케 시노하라 씨의 설명이다.

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